Effect of seam on drape of selected lightweight woven fabrics

Abstract

Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than one direction with double curvature. For many years, textile researchers studied this attribute in order to evaluate the drape quality and improve the drape appearance of garments. However, fabric drape can be more realistically investigated by considering seams. When various cut panels are stitched together, this will lead to significant variations in fabric drape performance. Thus investigation of the impact of a seam on fabric drape performance can help to understand, evaluate, and assure the appearance of the final garment. The purpose of this research is to analysis the influence of direction and number of seams on fabric drape parameters. Further, the research may explore the influence on bending rigidity on drape coefficient. Two main experiments, draping testing and bending testing were carried out in this study. For the experiment, 100% cotton, lightweight, plain woven fabric was used as the base material expecting medium weight. Seam type SSa with stitch type 301 was used to prepare samples. Six types of samples were prepared with varying number of seams and seam directions for draping test. For the bending testing, six types of samples were prepared with varying fabric direction. Cusick's drapemeter was used as a testing apparatus to analyze the drape of samples with seams and bending rigidity was investigated for similar types of sample using fixed angle flexometer. Drape behavior was determined and compared in terms of drape coefficient and node amplitude. The effect of the number of seams and seam directions on fabric drape coefficient and stability of drape profile were statistically determined. The relationships were derived in between drape coefficient and bending rigidity for fabric with seams in warp, weft and bias directions. Investigating on drape on fabric with seams can improve apparel design and fabric end-use applications. Moreover, contributing to garment drape prediction for the 3D modeling in clothing CAD system.