Assessment of wave climate off the southern coast of Sri Lanka

Abstract

Wave climate off the southern coast of Sri Lanka is characterized by the long period swell waves with nearly southerly direction of approach throughout the year and the sea waves mainly influenced by the south west monsoonal winds. Towards the southeastern part of the coastline, the influence of north eastern monsoonal waves is also seen. A proper assessment of nearshore wave climate is essential in the economical design of coastal and harbour structures and in implementing preventive measures against coastal erosion.