Faculty of Engineering, Textile & Apparel Engineering / Clothing Technology

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item: Thesis-Full-text
Accelerated dimensional stability test method designed for 100% cotton single jersey weft knit fabric in urgent situations
Weragala, D; Niles, SN
Standard dimensional stability test methods have higher lead times. In a manufacturing environment a dimensional stability test method with shorter lead time is an option provided under some international standards. Such test methods have been developed based on one specific machine designed exclusively for this purpose. As a solution, an alternative test procedure was developed in an existing washing machine for industrial use. The Miele automatic front loading washing machine was selected for this research. A washing and drying procedure developed with 30-minute washing procedure and 30-minute tumble drying procedure. This research related only to 100% cotton single jersey products. The key features of the BS EN ISO 6330:2012 washing and drying procedure was compared with those of the proposed washing and drying procedure. A pilot run with five samples was done with three different weights against proposed washing and drying procedure for conditioned, unconditioned states and BS EN ISO 6330:2012 washing and drying procedure. Thirty samples were tested in one material to confirm the consistency of the new washing and drying procedure. Twelve samples representing four different GSM values were tested according to BS EN ISO 6330:2012 and proposed washing and drying procedure and a satisfactory correlation was obtained.
item: Thesis-Abstract
An Analysis of apparel exporters of Sri Lanka
Mataraarachchi, R; Heenkenda, N
The global apparel industry is currently undergoing a significant process of transformation. The liberalization of the trade regime governing textiles and apparel with the phase out of the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA) under the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC). has opened up the market for an\ apparel supplying country who remains competitive in the global apparel trade. This has given freed for apparel retailers, to have a choice among the apparel manufacturers. They can source from any country where they can get the best product, which meet their requirements. Therefore global apparel trade has become much competitive in the market./ Although the results of the above transformation are predicted to an increase in global trade, the impact is likely to differ among countries and regions. For each country this represents both an opportunity and a threat. An opportunity for the countries who remains competitive in the apparel trade since markets will no longer be restricted, and a threat for the countries who are not very competitive in the trade of apparel because other apparel manufacturers will no longer be restrained. To get an opportunity form the liberalized apparel market apparel manufacturers should build comparative advantage over the competitors./ The study focuses on Sri Lankan apparel industry and it reviews the most recent market developments in apparel retailer sourcing strategies with the quota removal. The study builds a framework to assess the capabilities of apparel manufacturers, to be successful in the competitive apparel market. It examines the capability of Sri Lankans apparel manufacturers to fulfill the requirements of the apparel retailers in both country level and organizational level. The study applies Porter's Diamond Model in assessing the competitiveness of Sri Lankan apparel manufacturing industry from the data collected under the framework. The study argues that Sri lank which aspires to maintain an export led strategy in textile & clothing need to shift their expertise from basic factors to more value added specialized factors in order to build competitive advantage in the global apparel trade. Also study concludes that Sri Lanka should expand the nation's competitive advantage through internationalization.
item: Thesis-Full-text
Analyzing the thermal shrinkage behavior of polyester / elastomeric weft knitted fabrics
(2020) Perera, HAAE; Lanarolle, WDG
Thermoplastic polymer fabrics are normally heat set to make them dimensionally stable. These fabrics in garment panel form may again be exposed to heat during the processes such as rubber print curing and cause to change their dimensions. The key issue addressed in this study; the thermal shrinkage of heat-set polyester/elastomeric knitted fabrics during postheat treatment processes which is a practical and a current problem in the garment industry. The thermal shrinkage behavior of heat-set polyester knitted fabrics, under a wide range of conditions, mainly to simulate the post-heat treatment processes, using geometric and thermodynamic parameters were investigated. The findings present a statistically sound analysis of different thermal behavior patterns, while examining their causes based on both material properties and dimensions of the plain knitted fabrics. The key findings reveal that heat-setting and heat-curing temperatures have a significant effect on thermal shrinkage behavior. Thermal shrinkage in course direction is highly related to the width-wise extension applied during heat-setting and the wale direction is highly correlated to the shrinkage behavior of the yarns in hank form. Noticeable changes in polyester thermal behavior occur at 160°C and thermal shrinkage is heavily influenced by thermal history of materials. Taut-end and slack-end conditions maintained while heatsetting and heat-curing significantly affected thermal shrinkage. The higher percentage of overfeed during heat-setting leads to lower thermal shrinkages in subsequent thermal activities. Thermal shrinkage was evidence of a change in the structural parameters of knitted material. Structural changes are mainly due to the change of shape of the loop and/or thermal shrinkage of the stitch length. The introduction of elastomeric yarn to the polyester knitted structure led to make more thermally stable fabrics. In order to reduce thermal shrinkage during subsequent heat treatment, a high temperature heat-setting and a moderate percentage over feed should be retained during thermal setting. The post heat treatment results revealed that the low temperatures during heat treatments though have no trend but causes comparatively low thermal shrinkage or expansion, it is safe and advisable to use low post heat setting temperatures where possible.
item: Thesis-Abstract
Application of pull system concept for garment production
(2014-08-01) Ariyapperuma, AADP
This Study presents the overview of the full system and its implementation in real production floor. Here discuss the practical obstacles of real implementation and the impact on the organization instead of general observations and exact theory explanations. Pull system is more on planning in advance lo get ready the input item in the pipe line with the lime frame set in advance , it is also related to get the item just in time when it's production needed. The concept in pull system is work with minimum work in progress. The biggest the VV1P, cash How will tight down, the business will collapse for that company with limited fund. For those company have plenty of fund, they will be loosen out due low interest charge on those WIP which the money already paid but still in the process (buyer only pay after goods shipped out from factory). At the end of the study, it clearly shows not only the significant saving due to controlling the WIP but also the improvement of quality and speed o f the process.
item: Thesis-Full-text
Characterization of new natural cellulosic fibre from lasia spinosa (L.) thwaites rhizome for biodegradable textile material
(2020) Rathnapala MHMT; Gunasekera USW
This study presents the characteristics of Lasia spinosa fibres (LSFs) extracted from the rhizome of the Lasia spinosa (L.) Thwaites (LS), a plant which is commonly available in the Asian region as a medicinal plant which has not been investigated previously with the intension of exploring the feasibility in developing a textile material. Two common species, Lamina dissected type and Sagittate type plant rhizome fibres were investigated with the use of fibre characterization tools and methods. Mechanical extraction and Alkali extraction methods were followed in extracting fibres from rhizomes. Morphological properties of fibres such as longitudinal section and cross section views were studied using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). Chemical functional groups and crystalline structure, were investigated using Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and X-Ray Diffraction analysis (XRD) respectively. Thermal stability of the fibre was investigated using Thermogravimetric Analyzer (TGA). In addition, fibre properties were investigated by the way of measuring tensile properties, moisture absorbency and dye uptake. The rhizome anatomy and the fibre morphological observations through SEM reveals fibres are presents in rhizome in the form of scattered vascular bundles with crimp. Each bundle contains approximately 16-25 microfibrils. The FTIR analysis confirms the fibres are rich in cellulose and the X-RD results confirm higher amount of amorphous regions in fibres with a crystallinity index of 43% with a lower amount of crystal phases. Higher moisture regains of 12.54 -14.5%, single fibre tensile strength of 201-205 MPa, higher breaking elongation of 16.89% and 1.3 GPa of Young’s modulus with a thermal stability temperature of 230℃ were the some of the values obtained in this research project. All the results obtained were compared with the characteristics of Cotton fibre.
item: Thesis-Abstract
Control of loop length in the production of plain knit fabrics
(2014-07-04) Dayaratne, KAG
The important results obtained by previous workers , who were interested in the construction of plain knitted fabrics, have been critically analysed. Several fabric samples with different loop lengths were examined so as to obtain further information and some relationships have been observed from the experimental values. An attempt to disaprove some misconceptions , about w/cm and g/m of plain knit fabrics has been made. Finally a suggestion , helpful for further development of the project , has been brought forward.
item: Thesis-Abstract
Control of yarn tension in the production of plain knit fabrics
(3/29/2011) Perera, KA Eason, P
This is a study of the influence of yarn tension in the production of plain knit fabrics. The fabric samples in this study were produced in a leading knitting mill "Cyntex Knitters" at Eakala and all the tests were carried out in the textile laboratories at the University of Moratuwa, under controlled atmospheric conditions. The fabric samples produced on one machine may include some errors but will include in this study. This project work could also serve as a starting point for further investigations of the static charge buildup during weft knitting process and also of the lubrication of knitting yarns.
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Cost reduction in the processing department at Pugoda Textile Mill
(3/29/2011) Gauthamadasa, K
This project has been undertaken to review and study the existing textile finishing process in the Processing Department of the pugoda Textile Mill, and to Propose cost reductive modifications a or new methods of practical importance. The suggestion made here are practicable under the existing set up of processing machinery ,While maintaining and ever . improving the present quality stranded conclude that there are large number of possibilities Of reducing cost by process modification and new methods
item: Thesis-Full-text
Decision making model for the front - end of apparel innovation
(2022) Seram NCK; Nanayakkara LDJF; Lanarolle WDG
A systematic, well-documented approach is absolutely essential in today’s context of apparel innovation to manage and implement the activities of the innovation process in the winning goal of developing fashion-forward innovative apparel products. Decision making at the front-end of the innovation process is the most significant aspect of the success of the entire innovation process. As such, decision making in the front-end by incorporating co-creation of value in the Business to Business (B2B) customer context is vital as this is deemed to be the best way to put the company in a strong position in the market with respect to competitiveness and survival. The existing models for decision making in the front-end have limited clarity on what decisions should be made at different stages, how the decisions should be made and what the specific roles of the B2B customers are, in the process of innovation. Though enormous focus and efforts are evident in developing innovative apparel products by the Sri Lankan apparel industry, no standardized procedures have been laid down for the decision making in the apparel innovation process, as revealed from the discussions with the senior managers of the Sri Lankan apparel industry. Thus, this study aims at filling these gaps in the literature and apparel industry practices by developing a model for decision making in the front-end by incorporating ‘co-creation of value in the B2B context’ to provide a useful guide for the apparel product innovation process. Initially, three companies in Sri Lanka, who have heavily concentrated on apparel product innovation for the past ten years were studied to identify the type of innovative product offered and the key decisions involved in the front-end of innovation. The findings indicated that 9095 percent of innovations are incremental in the practical apparel setting in Sri Lanka. The world reputed international apparel brands are directly involved in the manufacturing process as the apparel products are made available to end consumer through apparel brands. Three innovation initiation approaches are practiced by the apparel brands; innovation ‘initiated by company for customer’, ‘initiated by company with customer’, and ‘initiated by customer’. The key decision gates vary in the three innovation initiation approaches, eight in the first two approaches and seven in the third approach. The inputs from apparel brands and suppliers are also in different forms and in different intensities. The front-end decision making process is controlled by the core competencies and climate of the company and the operational competencies and relationship characteristics of the external actors. The results obtained in the case studies for two initiation approaches found within incremental apparel product innovation (innovation ‘initiated by company’ and ‘initiated by B2B customer’) were re-examined and verified using two concurrent studies: semi-structured interviews and a questionnaire survey. Three individual components (i. decision making process steps, ii. interactive roles of B2B customers, producers, and suppliers, and iii. factors that influence the front-end decision making process) were included in the Meta decision model as they closely interconnect to each other. The Modified Delphi technique was employed in the process of model validation to verify the Meta decision making model in terms of the levels of clarity of the content, overall reliability, practicality, and appropriateness for the apparel sector. The opinions of experts involved in the validation Modified Delphi study confirmed that the Meta decision making model provides a deeper understanding of what decisions should be made at different stages, the responsible decision makers for each key decision, and how the decisions should be handled systematically at the front-end of apparel innovation. The Meta decision making model could assist apparel producers to improve the quality of design solutions, avoid ineffective solutions, create the best value for customers, and meet the needs of demanding customers.
item: Thesis-Abstract
Design of a computer system for the analysis of defects and grading of woven fabrics
(6/23/2011) Niles, SN; Fernando, S; Lanerolle, WDG
Inspection of fabrics is a major consideration in fabric manufacture, as well as in the manufacture of garments and other fabric-based goods. In the Sri Lankan industry fabric inspection is almost entirely carried out by manual methods, and is therefore subjective and prone to human error. This research has sought to address this problem by developing a computerised system to analyse and grade fabrics on the basis of captured defective images obtained from the fabric. In this research a computer-based system for the objective assessment of fabric defects was designed. The system was designed with special emphasis on the fabric defects occurring in the Sri Lankan industry. Image processing techniques were used to analyse scanned images of the test fabric, compare it with an ideal sample which is made available, and identify defects according to pre-learnt rules. The information gathered was then used to grade the fabric, either by giving the frequency of occurrence of defects or by assigning points. A new classification method for common defects was designed, that would facilitate easy grading according to commonly used grading systems. A coding system for defects was also designed, which helps in reporting defects to the user. The detected fabric defects were classified and stored according to the developed classification method and using the proposed coding system.
item: Thesis-Abstract
Developing a toolkit to incorporate environmental improvements into the fashion design process
(2023) Munasinghe PD; Dissanayake DGK; Druckman A
The fashion industry plays a vital role in the development of the global economy while creating significant stress on the environment throughout its supply chains, due to high resource consumption, waste generation, and carbon emissions. The mass-market is the major market segment that creates sustainability concerns due to high volumes of production and low product prices that motivate consumers to buy more and throw away often. Consumer awareness and governmental concern regarding the sustainability of the fashion industry have increased and the industry is now being urged to take steps to mitigate environmental concerns. The literature reports many initiatives by various parties to address the environmental challenges in the fashion industry, but little success has been achieved to date. To address the sustainability issues of fashion products, environmental impacts need to be taken into consideration during the early stages of the product development process, and not once the product is being made. Most of the decisions of a fashion product are made in the product development stage, yet a comprehensive tool that supports making environmentally conscious decisions is lacking. This study describes the development of a user-friendly toolkit for mass-market fashion designers, that facilitates environmentally responsible decision-making during the product development process. The toolkit is expected to provide a simple, timeefficient and inexpensive method that integrates sustainability into the design of apparel products. This study employed a mixed-method approach which used both quantitative and qualitative investigations. A systematic literature review was conducted with a meta-analysis to investigate the environmental impact of the life cycle of the fashion product to develop a database which comprises impact data across the clothing lifecycle Semi-structured interviews were conducted with mass-market fashion designers and sustainable design practitioners to investigate the key activities and decisions of the mass-market design process and to explore views concerning the impact of those decisions on the environment. Thematic analysis was used to analyse the qualitative data. Later the interconnections of both quantitative and qualitative aspects were made and those interconnections were composed into a comprehensive structure to develop the toolkit. The model is simulated as a simple web-based application that can be used as a toolkit to facilitate sustainable decision-making in the product development process. The toolkit structure includes data processing and visualisation methods, decision support protocols to improve the sustainability of the design, and a user interface of the toolkit: data inputs, decision making, presenting results and a bridge to link each interface. Finally, the simulated IT-based toolkit was validated by the fashion designers, during which the toolkit was proven to be successful in facilitating a user-friendly sustainable decision-making process.
item: Thesis-Full-text
Development of a customizable production line layout planning system for Sri Lankan fast fashion apparel industry
Perera, KGU; Kulatunga, AK
Fast fashion apparel industry is having a significant growth in international markets. Frequent fluctuation of customer demand with smaller batch quantities and, short lead-times, are the key characteristics of fast fashion apparel products. Main target markets of Sri Lankan ready-made apparel industry are rapidly adapting the fast fashion strategy. In order to retain and attract the customers of Sri Lankan ready-made apparel industry, it is essential to address the frequent problems related with fast fashion apparels. This research addresses the increased changeover cost related with production line layouts, which is the major problem in terms of fast fashion apparels. The developed production layout planning system uses dynamic cellular manufacturing concept as the basis. A comprehensive literature review, case study on a selected factory, and questionnaires were used to determine the essential features included in the developed system. The developed system consists of two mathematical models, an algorithm and a computer program to determine the optimum layout solutions that minimize the costs of machine set-ups, machine relocations, material handling, and workload balancing. The developed system is validated using case studies conducted in five apparel manufacturing factories that are currently producing fast fashion apparels. According to the validation results, the developed system is capable of achieving significant cost saving percentages compared to current state in the selected factories.
item: Thesis-Abstract
Development of a sustainable QA model to support direct sourcing for clothing in a region
(3/28/2011) Fernando, PDN; Lanarolle, WDG
Due to the ever changing dynamics in the supply chain management, relocation of garment industry is inevitable. Unlike fifty years ago where some of the well known retailers emphasized the buy British policy in today's context it is no longer a sustainable slogan. Particularly an industry like garment manufacturing that is labor intensive becomes footloose due to cost of production being low in developing countries. Therefore the no of clothing retailers who had gone out on direct sourcing and out of their traditional manufacturing homelands is more in the last two years than the whole of last ten years. However the discerning consumers who patronized these brands do not want any compromise on quality. Therefore various retailers have adopted various quality assurance models to ensure the faulty merchandise do not reach the consumer. The dissertation unravels the study into various QA models in existence and their pitfalls and propose a cost effective, improvement breeding sustainable QA model that will support direct sourcing. The proposed system a drives improvement eliminates non value adding inspection and does not impeded the speed to market as a result of the QA model.
item: Thesis-Abstract
Development of a triboelectric nanogenerator using nylon-hybrid yarn
(2021) Gunawardhana KRSD; Wanasakara ND
Human needs are continually changing with the enhancement of novel electronic technologies. The Internet of Things (IoT), Artificial Intelligence, and 5G technology have led to state-ofthe-art products to improve the living standards if a rapidly increasing global population. Wearable electronics, which closely associated with human activities, are typically powered with replaceable or rechargeable batteries. There are significant drawbacks of existing power supplies for wearable electronics, including low flexibility and stretchability, limited autonomy, low biocompatibility and high weight. Portable and renewable energy harvesting are possible from a wearer's physical movements in an ambient environment. In recent years, this has been achieved using Piezoelectric and Triboelectric nanogenerators, which act as an alternative to batteries for powering wearable electronic devices. However, such technologies' challenges include the magnitude and consistency of power output, fabrication for mass-scale production and operation under small mechanical movements. This project focus on developing a triboelectric nanogenerator using silver-coated nylon yarn, silicone and polyurethane with a rib knitting structure. The basic fundamental methods of applying triboelectric layers such as dip coating, printing and yarn coating methods analysis for wearable and electrical outputs. Yarn coated sample shows the best results with even coverage, good air permeability (101 cm3/cm2/s), high moisture management properties and high stretchability (Stretchability -75.82%, Recoverability- 76.67% and elastic modulus of 1.4093). Furthermore, when polyurethane bonded air textured sample used as a secondary triboelectric layer, the final device shows a maximum short circuit current of 3.412 µA/m , the charge density of 6.12 µC/m2 and maximum open-circuit voltage of 51.08 V under the 1 mm amplitude over 1 Hz frequency. Finally, the device used to generate a peak power of 116.8 µW/m2 through 10 GΩ resistors under the same motion profile.
item: Thesis-Full-text
Development of conductive and biodegradable nanofibrous yarns : study of electrical and mechanical properties
(2020) Weerasinghe PVT; Wanasekara N D; Dissanayake DGK
Electrically conductive and biodegradable materials are desired for a vast array of applications in wearable and flexible electronic areas to address the growing ecological problem of e-waste. Herein, we report on the design and fabrication of all-organic, conductive and biodegradable yarn using polyaniline (PANi) and polycaprolactone (PCL). The process of PANi incorporation is achieved in two ways; i) electrospinning a blend of PANi and PCL solution ii) in-situ polymerization of PANi on the nanofibrous surface of PCL electrospun fibers. The electrospun PANi incorporated webs are cut into ribbons and twisted to develop twisted yarns. A customized setup was used to produce continuous electrospun yarns. The effect of different degrees of PANi blended into PCL was investigated. Moreover, the effect of an array of aniline concentrations in coated fibers were studied. PCL/PANi blended solution with 2% PANi resulted in nanofibers with resistance of 10 ± 4 MΩ/cm. Fibers coated with 1% aniline concentration resulted in the core-shell fibers with of 50 ± 8 kΩ/cm. Increasing the number of plies of yarn to 3 plies resulted in a 3-fold reduction of the resistance. The twisted plied yarns were incorporated into fabric by stitching or weaving to demonstrate the stability of conductivity over mechanical forces. Both PANi blended and PANi coated yarns were found to be biodegradable in controlled environmental conditions. The use of PANi blended yarn as a biomaterial for tissue engineering and PANi coated yarns as a wearable electrode for capacitive sensors were demonstrated. The electromechanical behavior of PANi coated yarn is expected to provide inspiration for the production of highly sensitive strain sensors. This approach presents an early step on the way to the realization of all organic conductive biodegradable nanofibrous yarns for sustainable smart textiles.
item: Thesis-Full-text
Development of wearable triboelectric Nanogenerators using optimised knitted structures
(2023) Dassanayaka HDDG; Wanasekara ND; Dharmasena IG
The rapid development of portable and wearable electronic devices has increased the demand for sustainable, low-maintenance, and lightweight power-supplying methods. One of the leading technologies in fabricating such power-supplying methods is triboelectric nanogenerators, which can be used to generate electricity using human motion. Triboelectric nanogenerator works on contact electrification and electrostatic induction, and a plethora of fabrication techniques have been used in the fabrication of triboelectric nanogenerators. One such technique is knitting technology, which is one of the major textile fabrication methods. In this research, the effect of different knitting parameters and knitted structures on electrical performance of triboelectric nanogenerators were evaluated. The knitting parameters considered are stitch length and yarn count, and knitted structures considered are single jersey, rib, and interlock. Based on the results obtained, a wearable knitted sensor was fabricated using nylon 66 and silver as triboelectric surfaces. This sensor was able to identify finger bendings and tappings. Moreover, the durability of the electrical outputs of the knitted sensor was evaluated by studying the behavior of the conductive fabric’s resistance when subjected to washing and abrading. The wearable performance of the triboelectric sensor was studied by measuring the air permeability and abrasion resistance of different sections of the sensor. Finally, the capability of using the sensing fabric for IoT applications was explained.
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Economising in the printing department at Thulhiriya textile mill
(3/29/2011) Tennakoon, AAK
The object of printing on textiles is to attract attention of consumers. The main theme of printing is localizing of various textures and colours on whit e or coloured ground of textile goods. There are several areas considered where minimizing of cost in printing could be per formed, under the following headings:- Saving of thermal energy, saving of water consumption in wet processes, increase in production speeds, damage control ,choice of dyes, selection of design & colour ways, inventory control, control of colours and chemicals in printing ,replacing costlier chemicals where ever possible, use of ingredients to improve their colour yield. Many of these areas, where cost reduction in printing that could be achieved at Thulhiriya Textile mill, have been dealt with in conclusion.
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Effect of lycra and nylon yarn percentage on the dimensional and physical characteristics of locknit warp knitted fabrics
(2015-09-16) Dissanayaka, DMS; Lanarolle, WDG
The effects of different percentages of elastane and Nylon yarn on the dimensional and physical properties of elastanelNylon Locknit warp knitted fabrics are investigated. In order to investigate the properties ofthe fabric, four different samples were knitted by selecting four different run-in ratios of elastane and Nylon. Elastane yarn was kept at a constant elongation of 65% for all four samples. Two samples were produced keeping constant run-in of nylon yarn and changing the run-in length of elastane yarn. Then elastane yarn run-in was kept constant and produced two other samples. The sample with minimum run-in length of elastane yarn and the highest run-in ratio has the highest value of load at 20%, 40%, 60% and 80% extensions in length direction and the lowest values of load at 20%, 40%, 60% and 80% extensions in width direction. This is due to the fact that low run in of elastane yarn increases the strain on the yarn and it increases the tightness factor value of the sample and contributes higher load at extension along the length direction of the greige sample. Nylon yarn runner length influences the relaxation behavior of elastane yarn and it leads to reduce the load at extension along the width direction of the sample. Changing of Nylon yarn runner length influence the relaxation behavior of elastane yarn and it has an effect on the load at different extension in width direction and course density of the greige fabric. Results revealed that the effect of elastane content of the sample is more on the load at extension values than the effect of run-in of the Nylon yarn.
item: Thesis-Full-text
EFFECT OF SEAM ON DRAPE OF SELECTED LIGHTWEIGHT WOVEN FABRICS
Rupasinghe, RADWS; Seram, N
D r a p e is a u n i q u e p r o p e r t y t l i a t a l l o w s a f a b r i c t o b e b e n t i n m o r e t h a n o n e d i r e c t i o n w i t h d o u b l e c u r v a t u r e . F o r m a n y y e a r s , t e x t i l e r e s e a r c h e r s s t u d i e d t h i s a t t r i b u t e i n o r d e r to e v a l u a t e t h e d r a p e q u a l i t y a n d i m p r o v e t h e d r a p e a p p e a r a n c e o f g a r m e n t s . H o w e v e r , f a b r ic d r a p e can be m o r e r e a l i s t i c a l l y i n v e s t i g a t e d b y c o n s i d e r i n g s e a m s . W h e n v a r i o u s c u t p a n e ls are s t i t c h e d t o g e t h e r , t h i s w i l l l e a d t o s i g n i f i c a n t v a r i a t i o n s i n f a b r i c d r a p e p e r f o r m a n c e. T h u s i n v e s t i g a t i o n o f t h e i m p a c t o f a s e a m o n f a b r i c d r a p e p e r f o r m a n c e can h e l p to u n d e r s t a n d , e v a l u a t e , a n d a s s u r e t h e a p p e a r a n c e o f t h e final g a r m e n t
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Effect of seam on drape of selected lightweight woven fabrics
Rupasinghe, RADWS; Seram, N
Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than one direction with double curvature. For many years, textile researchers studied this attribute in order to evaluate the drape quality and improve the drape appearance of garments. However, fabric drape can be more realistically investigated by considering seams. When various cut panels are stitched together, this will lead to significant variations in fabric drape performance. Thus investigation of the impact of a seam on fabric drape performance can help to understand, evaluate, and assure the appearance of the final garment. The purpose of this research is to analysis the influence of direction and number of seams on fabric drape parameters. Further, the research may explore the influence on bending rigidity on drape coefficient. Two main experiments, draping testing and bending testing were carried out in this study. For the experiment, 100% cotton, lightweight, plain woven fabric was used as the base material expecting medium weight. Seam type SSa with stitch type 301 was used to prepare samples. Six types of samples were prepared with varying number of seams and seam directions for draping test. For the bending testing, six types of samples were prepared with varying fabric direction. Cusick's drapemeter was used as a testing apparatus to analyze the drape of samples with seams and bending rigidity was investigated for similar types of sample using fixed angle flexometer. Drape behavior was determined and compared in terms of drape coefficient and node amplitude. The effect of the number of seams and seam directions on fabric drape coefficient and stability of drape profile were statistically determined. The relationships were derived in between drape coefficient and bending rigidity for fabric with seams in warp, weft and bias directions. Investigating on drape on fabric with seams can improve apparel design and fabric end-use applications. Moreover, contributing to garment drape prediction for the 3D modeling in clothing CAD system.